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Growing leek and cabbage seedlings

Growing leek and cabbage seedlings


Read the previous part: Growing tomato seedlings

Growing leek seedlings

Requires a long term for growing seedlings - 50-65 days, depending on the early maturity of the variety. Since leeks are a cold-resistant culture, seedlings can be planted in open ground quite early, in the first half of May, after hardening.

The term for sowing seeds for seedlings falls on the first half of March. You can sow earlier, but in March, the plants get more light, and the leek just requires a high light intensity and a long day, otherwise it grows poorly. Of course, if there is an opportunity to give it artificial illumination, then it should be planted earlier, even at the beginning of February. Then the harvest will be earlier and more.


For sowing, half-liter boxes of dairy products with a depth of 8-10 cm are suitable. Before sowing, the seeds must be soaked in warm water for a day, then dried to a loose state. Sow according to the scheme 1x1 cm to a depth of 0.5 cm. You can sow with hatched seeds, this will speed up the emergence of seedlings by 5 - 7 days. Cover crops with foil. Until the emergence of seedlings, keep crops in a warm place - 20-22 ° C. At higher temperatures, seedlings appear unevenly, stretching for a long time. In the future, the seedlings grow well at room temperature. Seedlings look like needles, on the ends of which black caps of the seed coat are put on, which the seedlings do not shed. Before planting in the ground, seedlings can be fed twice with full mineral fertilizer. Loves watering, but in moderation.

In the same way, seedlings are grown to obtain turnip onions from nigella in one year. You can sow 7-10 days later than leeks.


Growing cabbage seedlings

Full-fledged seedlings of early and late white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, early Savoy cabbage, red cabbage can be grown in 45-50 days; mid-ripening white cabbage, late-ripening Savoyard - 35-40 days. Seedling is considered ready when 4-5 leaves are formed on it. The term for sowing seeds for this is the second half of March.

The difficulty of growing cabbage seedlings at home is that it is practically very difficult to withstand the temperature and light conditions corresponding to it, in which normal strong seedlings will grow. At the slightest violation of this regime, the seedlings are drawn out, but so quickly and strongly that it is not always possible to save it. Even if the windows face south, not enough light passes through the dusty double glass (for cabbage), but the thermal rays of the sun, together with the steam heating actively working in spring, heat up its growth beyond measure.

Therefore, if you do not have a balcony or loggia, there is no point in sowing cabbage for seedlings in urban conditions in March. In this case, you can sow in the first week of April. When shoots appear, the temperature should be reduced to 6-8 ° C in any possible way, for example, by opening the window and separating the planting from the room with a film. At night, sometimes you have to put seedlings in the refrigerator - and so on until the first true leaf appears. You can sow seeds for seedlings and in mid-April in a film greenhouse. Then the early harvest will be ready a little later, and the late-ripening varieties will have smaller heads.

Read all parts of the article "Growing seedlings for a new harvest"
Part 1: Growing seedlings for a new crop
Part 2: Growing Celery and Parsley Seedlings
Part 3: Growing Pepper and Eggplant Seedlings
Part 4: Growing tomato seedlings
Part 5: Growing leek and cabbage seedlings
Part 6: Timing of growing seedlings for different crops

L. Bobrovskaya experienced gardener


Planting leeks outdoors

What time to plant

Planting of leek seedlings in open ground is carried out in the first half of May, the age of the seedlings at the moment should reach 50-60 days. Immediately before planting seedlings in the garden, they must be watered abundantly. And during the transplant itself, the roots and foliage are shortened by 1/3 of the plants. It is recommended to plant seedlings on a cloudy day or in the evening.

Suitable soil

A well-lit open area that is not shaded by trees or buildings is suitable for growing such a crop. The soil should be neutral, nutritious and well-drained. Excessively acidic soil must be corrected by liming. The preparation of the site should be done in the autumn, for this it is dug up, at the same time bringing 1 tsp into the soil. urea, 2 tbsp. l. Nitrofoski and 10 liters of humus or compost per 1 square meter of the garden. In spring, humus and compost are scattered over the surface of the site (3 kilograms per 1 square meter), however, no digging is carried out, this organic matter will get into the soil during planting of seedlings and due to irrigation. After this preparation, seedlings can be planted.

The best predecessors of this crop are: beans, peas, soybeans and other legumes, white cabbage, early-ripening potatoes, green manure and tomatoes. The area where any type of onion has been grown for the last 3 years is not suitable for planting this crop.

Landing rules

Seedlings begin to harden at the age of 6-7 weeks, for this they are transferred outside during the daytime. The duration of such procedures is increased gradually, starting from several hours. When the plants are hardened, they can be planted in open soil.

Level the surface of the prepared area and make deep (from 10 to 15 centimeters) grooves, while the row spacing should be from 0.2 to 0.3 m. The soil pulled from the groove is laid in such a way that it cannot crumble into it. Depending on the variety, when planting the plants, a distance of 10 to 25 centimeters is observed between them. During the planting of seedlings, their roots are cut to 40 mm, and then they are dipped in a chatter box, which includes cow dung, clay and water (1: 1: 1). The onion is only slightly dripped in the groove (it is not necessary to completely fill it up). The planted plants need abundant watering, after which there should be no voids around the root system.

Winter sowing

Podzimny sowing of leeks is also very popular with gardeners. The preparation of the site is carried out in the summer months, for this they are digging, during which the necessary fertilizers are applied to the ground. Sowing seeds is carried out in November in prepared grooves, keeping a distance between them from 8 to 12 centimeters. In this case, the row spacing should be about 20 centimeters. For sowing, you need to choose a time when there will definitely be no warming, since the seedlings that appeared in warm weather can then die at the first frost. The surface of the bed must be covered with a layer of mulch (humus or peat), and then it is covered with a layer of snow, and the thicker it is, the better. When in spring the snow cover completely disappears, the first shoots will appear, by this time the return frosts should have already passed.


In early to mid-May we take the leek to the dacha. Frosts are not terrible for leeks, but it is better to cover from the sun with agrotex, prepare it in advance.
On the bed, grooves or grooves (pegs) with a depth of 10-12 cm are made, you can organize 2-3 rows on one bed. The roots of the seedlings are necessarily cut in half, this is necessary to build up a thick bleached leg, for which, in fact, we grow leeks. The leaves, however, are also trimmed to the level of the first young leaf. Then the seedlings are laid out at a distance of about 10 cm from each other, deepened a little, spilled, sprinkled and straightened by hands, thereby forming a bed so that it is convenient to water, and water so that it does not "roll" along the sides. Watering is extremely important for the leek during the period of intensive growth of powerful leaves until the beginning of bulb formation. Then you can water less or even hope for rain.

If later it turns out that the planting is too thick and the leek leaves are confused, then you can thin out. Young leeks are delicious too.


Broccoli cabbage varieties

In total, the State Register currently has 37 varieties of broccoli cabbage. Of early varieties broccoli is worth paying attention to cultivars: Venus, Vyarus, Green Magic and Corato, from mid-early varieties of broccoli have proven themselves well: Macho, Moscow souvenir, Naxos and Fiesta, from the category mid-season varieties of broccoli can be distinguished: Batavia, Heraklion, Gnome and Curly Head, from mid-late the best are: Ironman, Lucky, Monterey and Orantes, well, and finally, from the late ripening ones stand out: Agassi, Belstar, Beaumont and Quinta.

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9 comments

The sabzh is the most unpretentious of all cabbages and, together with chard, is probably the richest and most elegant decoration of the garden. And if you add amaranth to them)) All these mixborders, flower beds and other alpine slides are a faded likeness next to this riot of vital energy, its strength, its variety of shapes and colors))
The unpretentiousness of broccoli lies in the fact that all these dances with tambourines, in the form of shaking over seeds and seedlings, all these hardening, weeding and other fuss are wasted time and effort. And yes - you shouldn't worry too much about our sun. The seedlings stand well for a week before planting in the greenhouse, without any problems.
In adulthood, she is absolutely indifferent to weeds. They just won't be in the garden. In addition to cabbage, in the garden, there will be nothing at all)) Pests? No, this is not about her) Of course, in the case of epiphytotic raids, some problems are possible, but they were not particularly noticed. Dusting with ash both as a prophylaxis against pests and as a top dressing is enough. The frequency is at the discretion of the gardener. The same sores are not special. Naturally, if you had a keel of cabbage in your garden, then, in principle, any cabbage is contraindicated in your garden. Better for good. But this is how the white-headed woman likes to be ill - there is no such thing.
Watering - no problem. As soon as the cabbage is out of its seedling state, it is better to make a small depression in the middle of the garden bed, along the entire length - I dropped the hose and forgot. By the way, it tolerates heat very well. It grows quickly in warmth and quickly covers the ground with leaves. It is always wet and cool under them. Ideal conditions for slugs, but they have never been seen on it. There are hamsters nearby, they are bursting behind their ears))), but not a single one in the brocooli.
What does broccoli need? She needs a place. Lots of space. This is one of the main growing conditions. Burdock nervously smokes aside from the size of broccoli. If there are animals on the site, the leaves are excellent food. Leaves, by the way, are also good on the table in the form of cabbage rolls, borscht and other vegetable stews.
The second is warmth. Good, real warm. No, she is not a sissy and an adult can easily endure the cold, maybe they stand even to frost. Its heat is needed for tying the heads. Nice big heads. Actually, the first head is the largest. The rest are - indeed - appendages. Cute - but small. In principle, the plant can be removed altogether, after cutting the first head - the rest (especially if the summer is hot), they will bloom faster than you find them. And this is the most important thing - there is no value in the yellowing heads. None at all. Unless you plant them for seeds).
In addition, this plant is very strong, powerful, so it depletes the soil very much, and in order to minimize this business, it is worth removing it from the garden, after cutting the head.
And finally, the third and most important condition is soil. All that gram of fertilizer and a spatula of mullein is a waste of time.
There should be a powerful, fertile, breathable and moisture-absorbing surface layer. And no signs of soil acidification! If you have wheatgrass, sow thistle in your garden, and the ground is powdery sand or lumpy clay, broccoli is not for you. Don't torture yourself and the plant. No feeding will help the business.

the article is useful but I am very interested in something else. my greenhouse conditions are ideal and light and warm and drip irrigation and cabbage does not knit its inflorescences. the leaves are up to 2 meters long. and in 2-3 days there are no flowers shorter than cabbage and cauliflower behaves the same way. outside the same what would you advise.I live in the kuban

Good afternoon, Olga! The reason for this phenomenon may be heat (above 25 C) or low temperatures (below 18 C) during the laying of the head. You most likely have a fever!)) And the fact that the leaves grow huge is an excess of nutrition. Broccoli needs nitrogen, but more in the early stages, and during the formation of the head, more in phosphorus and potassium. For this reason, it is recommended during the period of tying the feeding head with potassium humate, every two weeks to ten days.
But flowering heads are also good for food, so do not rush to throw them away.

Probably too warm. And you just need to choose a variety for the given conditions.


Sowing leek seeds in open ground

Growing season leek about 6-7 months, therefore, sowing seeds in open ground is carried out to obtain salad greens at the end of July.

Seeds are sown in the second half of April in shallow grooves, the distance between which is 20-25 cm, and between plants 15-25 cm, depending on the variety. The temperature should be 8-12 degrees at night and 20 degrees during the day.

Before sowing seeds, they must be treated (disinfected), especially for those collected in their own garden. First, it is placed in hot water (40-45 degrees) for several hours, then immersed in cold water.

To obtain fast germination, the seeds are still germinated. A cloth napkin is moistened with water, the seeds are laid out on top. Leave the seeds in a warm (20-25 degrees) place for 2-3 days.

Dry the hatched seeds for several hours so that they crumble and can be sown and sown in the ground.

If you use purchased seeds, there is no need to process them, sow them immediately into the ground.

Video - Planting leeks in the ground


How to grow?

Create a fixture

For work you will need:

  • Tape made of any non-rigid material 10-15 cm wide (polyethylene film, bags, polypropylene or polyethylene foam backing under the laminate, etc.). The length is selected so that the finished snail fits well into the selected container (cup, jar, container).
  • The tape made of hygroscopic material is 2 cm wider than the backing tape (to serve as a wick for supplying moisture to the seeds) and the corresponding length.
  • Priming. The earth needs light, moisture-absorbing, nutritious.

Ordinary soil is suitable for seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, or prepared independently from two parts of sod land and one part of low-lying peat and humus.

Seed preparation

  • If the purchased seeds are covered with a colored shell, they have already been treated with fungicides against fungal diseases, and biostimulants - substances that enhance growth energy and immunity.
  • Regular seeds should be handled on their own. Disinfection can be done in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) at a temperature of + 50 ° C (it is convenient to do this in a thermos) for 45-60 minutes. After that, the seeds should be washed, held for hardening for twenty minutes in cold water, about +10 … + 15 ° С, then soak for 24-36 hours in a warm solution of Epin or Zircon. You can also use aloe juice as a stimulant. After that, dry the swollen seeds a little in the air and sow.

Scheme and technology

Planting seeds for seedlings is carried out as follows:

  1. An external tape (polyethylene, laminated backing) is laid out on the work surface.
  2. A substrate (toilet paper, paper towel strip or primer) is applied on top.
  3. The paper substrate is abundantly moistened with a spray bottle (preferably with soft water), the soil layer is well compacted and also moistened.
  4. The prepared seeds are laid out with tweezers at a distance of 1 cm from the top of the substrate and 1-2 cm from each other.
  5. Another dividing strip is superimposed on top (in the case of paper, this is optional).
  6. The structure is neatly rolled into a roll. If this is a snail with soil, then you need to roll up as tightly as possible in order to avoid subsidence of the earth down.
  7. The rolls are securely fixed with clerical rubber bands in several places, placed in prepared containers with a small amount of water, plastic bags or cling film are put on top, which are also fixed with an elastic band.
  8. From time to time, containers need to be opened for ventilation.

We offer you to watch a visual video about planting leeks in a snail:

  • Onion shoots appear en masse in 10-20 days. At this time, you need to remove the upper shelter (plastic bag, film) and move the containers with snails to a room with a lower temperature (15-17 degrees Celsius during the day, 10-12 at night). After a week, the temperature needs to be increased again (up to 18-20 degrees Celsius during the day and 13-15 at night). This temperature regime must be maintained constantly before landing in the ground.
  • Leek seedlings require 12 hours of daylight hours. This can be achieved by supplementary lighting with special phytolamps or economical LED counterparts.

You can buy a device for an electrical outlet, which automatically turns on and off the additional lighting at a set time.

Landing in open ground

You need to plant seedlings at the age of 60 to 100 days. depending on the duration of the growing season of a particular variety. Proceeding from this and knowing the usual timing of planting seedlings in the ground in a particular area, it is possible to calculate both sowing seeds for seedlings and planting them in open ground. This is usually from early to mid-May.

Leeks can be planted on a site where potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, legumes, siderates were previously grown. In no case should it be after any kind of onion.

Before planting, it is better to shorten the foliage and rhizome of the leek by about 1/3... The roots can be dipped in a solution of clay and humus in equal parts. This will protect the roots from drying out and improve plant survival.

When growing leeks, the following planting schemes are used:

  • double row (distance between stems about 15 cm, between rows - 30 cm)
  • multi-row (the distance between the stems is about 10 cm, the row spacing is 20 cm).


Watch the video: How to pot on leek seedlings.